Connemara: A Gentle Guide to Ireland's Wild Western Edge

Connemara is a landscape rather than a town: a wide, windswept corner of County Galway where bare mountains rise above brown bog, silver lakes and a ragged Atlantic coastline. The light changes every few minutes, and a view that was grey at breakfast can be glowing by lunch.

It is also a place that rewards slow travel. You do not need to climb anything to fall in love with it. A scenic drive, a boat on a fjord and a few short, level walks will give you the best of it.

This guide focuses on seeing the scenery comfortably, with honest notes on roads, weather and walking, so you can choose what suits you.

A little history

Connemara lies in the west of County Galway, with Galway city as its gateway to the east and the Atlantic to the west. Its poor, rocky soil shaped hard lives. During the Great Famine, Clifden became a centre for relief in the region, and in the early 1880s emigration schemes helped several thousand people leave for North America.

The area also has a place in the history of communication. The Marconi wireless station at Derrygimlagh began operating in 1907 and closed in 1922 after damage during the Civil War. In 1919, Alcock and Brown ended the first non-stop transatlantic flight near that station.

To see how ordinary families lived, the Dan O'Hara Connemara Heritage Centre near Clifden has a restored historic farm. It is a quiet, human-scale stop that adds meaning to the empty landscape you see from the road.

A historic farm at the Dan O'Hara Connemara Heritage Centre in Lettershea

What to see

The Twelve Bens and Connemara National Park

The Twelve Bens are the region's great mountain group, rugged and almost treeless. The national park sits at their foot, and its visitor centre is the natural starting point. Even if you never leave the car park area, the views are fine. Diamond Hill (about 442 m) is the park's famous climb, but the lower loop is far gentler than the summit route.

The Sky Road, Clifden

This loop of roughly 16 km starts at Clifden. The upper road is the most popular because it gives the widest views over the bays and islands, and there is a car park near the high point, about 5.5 km from town. Both roads are narrow, so go slowly and use the pull-ins.

Kylemore Abbey

About 20 km east of Clifden, the abbey stands beside a lake with woods behind it. Allow at least two hours. The walled garden is a 20-minute walk from the main building, a pleasant stroll if you take it at your own pace.

Killary Fjord

Killary is often described as Ireland's only fjord. Cruises leave from Nancy's Point, about 1.5 km west of Leenane, and operators describe the boat as wheelchair accessible. Sailings are seasonal and there are none in winter, so confirm times before you go.

The barren landscape of the Twelve Bens in Connemara National Park

Gentle ways to enjoy the scenery

The most comfortable way to see Connemara is from a seat: in a car, on a bus tour or on the fjord cruise. There are no cable cars or scenic railways here, so do not plan around them.

For a good day, drive from Clifden along the Sky Road, stop at the viewpoint, then continue past the national park to Kylemore and on to Leenane for the boat. Base yourself in Clifden or Letterfrack and you can break this into two easy days.

For walking, stay close to the visitor centre. The park has four marked trails from there, and the shorter ones are enough to feel the place. In the park you may also see Connemara ponies grazing, the region's famous native breed.

Ponies in Connemara National Park

Honest advice for comfortable travel

• Weather: It changes fast and the wind can be strong on high ground. Bring a waterproof jacket and warm layers even in summer.
• Hiking: Trails in the hills can be hard to follow and the ground is boggy and uneven. Choose the lower loops or flat paths.
• Roads: Many are narrow, with sheep and few places to pass. Allow more time than the distance suggests.
• Car: Public transport thins out away from the main routes, so a car (or a driver or small-group tour) gives the most freedom. Buses serve Clifden, Cleggan and Letterfrack from Galway, but the last return tends to be early.
• Where to stay: Clifden has shops, restaurants and pubs within a short walk. Letterfrack is a quieter option close to the national park.
• Pace: Plan one main outing a day. Distances are not huge, but winding roads are tiring.
• Booking: Book boat trips and popular rooms ahead in summer, and check seasonal opening before you travel.

Dry stone walls on the Connemara coast near Carna

What to eat

Seafood is the highlight. Mussels and oysters are farmed in Killary Harbour, and menus around Clifden and Roundstone often feature crab, lobster, prawns and salmon, fresh or smoked. Connemara lamb, from sheep grazing the hills, is another local favourite, often available from spring into summer.

A bowl of seafood chowder with brown bread is a satisfying, easy lunch after a morning of views. Many pubs serve hot food at midday, which suits a relaxed schedule.

Getting there

Connemara is reached mainly through Galway city. From there the N59 leads to Clifden, with a coastal alternative on the R336.

Our verdict

Connemara is for travellers who love space, silence and changing skies more than ticking off sights. It asks for patience with weather and narrow roads, but it gives back some of the most memorable scenery in Ireland.

With a base in Clifden, a few short drives, a boat trip and one or two level walks, it is a very manageable trip. Choose your days, carry a rain jacket and let the landscape do the work.

Connemara reflected in the water on a misty day

“In Connemara the mountains do the talking, and all you have to do is sit still and listen.”

Photo credits

• Conamara, Ireland: Calum Hutchinson, CC BY-SA 2.5 via Wikimedia Commons
• Das Dan O`Hara Connemara Heritage Center in Lettershea Irland. 01: Holger Uwe Schmitt, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Looking towards the barren landscape of the Twelve Bens, Connemara National park: Vratsa18, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• PONY'S IN CONNEMARA NATIONAL PARK - panoramio: johanvanbetsbrugge, CC BY 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Dry stone walls at the Connemara coast near Carna 2014: JoachimKohler-HB, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Connemara Reflection: Michael Deligan, CC BY-SA 4.0 via Wikimedia Commons