Valensole: A Gentle Guide to Provence's Sea of Lavender

Come over the last rise on the Valensole plateau in early summer and the landscape changes colour. Long rows of lavender and lavandin curve over the gentle hills, in every shade from blue to violet. The air smells sweet and herbal, and the hum of bees follows you from the car to the field edge.

Valensole sits in the Alpes-de-Haute-Provence, on the northern edge of the Verdon Regional Nature Park. The plateau is broad and open, with wheat fields, almond trees and small farms between the lavender. Much of the best scenery is only a few steps from a parking spot.

This guide is for travellers who want the views without the effort. It covers the gentlest viewpoints, the easiest ways to see the plateau, and some honest advice about heat, crowds and driving.

A little history

Lavender has grown wild on the sunny slopes of Provence for a very long time. Farming it on a large scale is more recent, and it grew with the perfume trade of nearby Grasse. The Valensole plateau became one of the great growing areas. It covers several hundred square kilometres, mostly given over to lavender and cereals.

Most of the purple you see here is actually lavandin, a hybrid (Lavandula intermedia). It is sturdier and gives more oil than true lavender, which is usually grown higher up and has the finer fragrance. The two look similar to the casual eye, and both are beautiful.

The harvest starts around the middle of July. Distilleries on and around the plateau turn the flowers into essential oil, and some welcome visitors. The village holds a lavender festival each July, with a market and demonstrations. Sources disagree on the exact day, so check with the tourist office before you plan around it.

A lavender distillery during the festival at Valensole.

What to see

The plateau is best enjoyed slowly, with a car, a camera and plenty of stops. You do not need to hike. The finest views often come from a lay-by or a field edge.

The open plateau

The D6 and the minor roads around the village cross the heart of the lavender country. Rows run toward the horizon, and the Alps are sometimes visible on a clear day. Early morning and the hour before sunset bring the softest light and the lightest traffic.

Lavender at the foot of the hills

Towards the edges of the plateau the fields meet low hills and lines of trees. These views make some of the prettiest photographs. They are also easy to enjoy from the roadside, with no walking at all.

The village of Valensole

The village is small and quiet, with a church, old fountains and a lavender museum. Honey shops and farm stores are a pleasant way to spend an hour when the midday sun is too strong.

Storm skies

Summer storms can pass over the plateau. The dark clouds make the purple look richer, so a grey afternoon does not have to spoil your day. Take shelter if lightning is near.

Lavender fields at the foot of a mountain in the Valensole area.

A day trip nearby: Moustiers and the Verdon

The road from Valensole towards Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is one of the loveliest short drives in the region. It passes lavender stripes, farms and quiet villages. Riez, on the way, is known for its Roman columns.

Moustiers-Sainte-Marie is famous for its faience pottery, and it is the gateway to the Verdon Gorge and the turquoise Lac de Sainte-Croix. The village is built on a hillside, so expect slopes and steps. You can enjoy the setting from the lower streets and the cafés without climbing far.

Allow a full day for the loop, with a slow lunch. If you do not want to drive, guided day trips run from Aix-en-Provence, usually around nine hours, but the route may change with the state of the bloom.

Lavender stripes somewhere between Valensole and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie, photographed in late June.

Honest advice for comfortable travel

The plateau is flat to gently rolling, which makes it kind to the knees. The challenges are heat, crowds and the lack of shade.

• Go early or late. Midday in July can be very hot, and there is almost no shade in the fields. Aim for the morning or the evening.
• Bring water, a hat and sun cream. Cafés and shops are few once you leave the village.
• Hire a car or a driver. Public transport on the plateau is limited. A car lets you stop where you like, and a local driver or small-group tour takes away the stress of narrow roads.
• Stay in or near Valensole. A room in the village or a guesthouse on the plateau means you can reach the fields in minutes, with no long drives at the end of the day.
• Respect the farms. The fields are working crops. Stay on the edges, do not trample the rows, and park only in safe places.
• Mind the bees. They are busy and usually calm, but anyone with a bee allergy should take care and carry any prescribed medicine.
• Book ahead. Rooms in the peak weeks fill up early.
• Expect uneven ground. Field edges are dry, rutted soil. Wear sturdy shoes and take it slowly.

Cultivated lavender on the Valensole plateau.

What to eat

The plateau's food is simple and full of flavour. The area is recognised in France as a Site Remarquable du Goût, thanks to its lavender honey, among other products.

• Lavender honey: delicate and floral. It is the best souvenir to bring home.
• Almonds: grown locally and used in calissons and nougat.
• Truffles: a local speciality in the right season.
• Lavender ice cream: a local favourite, and surprisingly refreshing on a hot afternoon.
• Goat and ewe cheeses, olive oil and pâtés: often sold at farm shops and markets.

Look for farm shops and the village markets, and ask about opening days, which vary.

Lavender flower honey from Valensole.

Getting there

Our verdict

Valensole is a place to arrive without a plan and let the scenery do the work. The rows, the scent and the soft light are worth the journey, and you can see most of it from a car seat or a short stroll.

Go in the early part of the season, avoid the middle of the day, and give yourself time for honey, ice cream and the drive to Moustiers. It is a gentle, memorable trip for anyone who loves open country and a good view.

Sunset light over Valensole, Provence.

“Here the summer is purple, and the road is simply the gentlest way to meet it.”

Photo credits

• Lavender 65448725: Rickard Olsson, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Distillerie de lavande lors de la fête à Valensole: Alpes de Haute Provence, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Fields 162146677: Laurent Virzi, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Lavender stripes somewhere between Valensole and Moustiers-Sainte-Marie - Provence, France - 30 June 2014: decar66 from Aix-en-Provence, France, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Lavandes sur le plateau de Valensole 04: BPUCCI, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Miel de lavande à Valensole: Gruenemann, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Feeling 167808027: Laurent Virzi, CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons