Lake Maggiore: A Gentle Guide to the Borromean Islands

Some lakes ask you to climb. Lake Maggiore lets you sit down. From a bench on the shore at Stresa, on the Piedmont side, you watch small ferries glide towards a cluster of islands, with mountains rising blue and soft behind them.

The Borromean Islands are the heart of the scene: a baroque palace garden shaped like a ship, a botanical island full of rare plants, and a fishing village where lanes run down to the water. All three are a short boat ride apart.

This is a landscape to take slowly. Boats do the travelling, a cable car lifts you to a mountain view, and the best walks are flat lakeside strolls. Here is how to enjoy it comfortably.

A little history

Lake Maggiore is shared by Piedmont, Lombardy and Switzerland. The Borromeo family, Lombard nobles, have long been tied to its islands. Sources differ on exactly when they acquired them, but the family has held most of them for centuries.

Isola Bella was once a bare, rocky islet. In the 17th century Count Vitaliano Borromeo built a palace and terraced gardens on it, and the island is generally said to be named after Isabella Borromeo. Isola Madre was, until the 16th century, home to only a few fishermen before the family turned it into a garden. From the 1700s the lake became a fashionable retreat for the Lombard nobility, and visitors have kept coming since.

Isola Bella, one of the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore.

What to see

Isola Bella

The best known island is a palace and a garden in one. Its terraced baroque garden climbs in tiers, and the belvedere at the top gives wide views over the water. Allow a relaxed morning, and treat the palace rooms and the garden as two separate visits, with a rest between.

Isola Madre

The largest island is a quieter, more natural garden. Camellias flower from March into April, and the azaleas are known for their May display. Its camellia collection dates from 1872 and is internationally recognised. Spring is the high point, though the garden is pleasant for much of the open season.

Isola dei Pescatori

Also called Isola Superiore, this is a small fishing village that is still lived in. There are no big sights here. You wander narrow lanes, look across the water and stop for lunch. It is the gentlest of the three.

The lakeside at Stresa

Stresa is an easy base. Its shoreline is good for slow strolls with views of the islands, and the ferry landing is close to town.

The belvedere in the baroque garden on Isola Bella, Stresa.

A day trip nearby

Mottarone by cable car

For a mountain panorama without a hard climb, take the cable car from Stresa up to Mottarone. The ride takes around 20 minutes, with a stop at an Alpine garden on the way. Choose a clear morning for the best views, and carry a light jacket, since it is cooler at the top.

Villa Taranto at Verbania Pallanza

Across the lake, Villa Taranto is a large botanical garden created by Captain Neil McEacharn from 1931. Ferries link Stresa with Verbania Pallanza, so you can go by water and avoid the car.

Honest advice for comfortable travel

• Stay in Stresa, near the lakefront and the ferry landing. Most of what you want is then a short walk or boat ride away.
• Use the boats. The public boats call at Isola Bella, Isola Madre and Isola dei Pescatori, and a day pass covering the islands has been offered. Check current prices and timetables.
• Expect steps. Both palace gardens are terraced and have stairs and paths with some slopes. Go slowly, and choose the shaded benches.
• Visit in the morning. Early or late hours are quieter and cooler, and the light is better for photographs.
• Mind the season. The islands open in spring and close in early November. In 2026 the dates were mid-March to 8 November. Boat services are reduced in autumn and winter, so check before you travel.
• Allow for the weather. Summer can be warm and busy. April to June suits the gardens best.
• Check the timetable. Reviews mention some irregular sailings, so keep some flexibility in your day.
• Pack comfortable shoes with good grip, as lanes and garden paths can be uneven.

Isola Bella, seen from Lake Maggiore.

What to eat

The lake lies between Piedmont and Lombardy, so menus mix both. Perch is one of the most important lake fish here, served as fillets with sage and butter or with risotto. You will also find trout, whitefish (lavarello) and tiny fried alborella as a starter.

Piedmont adds its own touches: cheeses, polenta, and truffles in autumn. For wine, look for reds from nearby Ghemme and Gattinara. Lunch on Isola dei Pescatori, with fish and a view of the water, is a pleasant way to spend an afternoon.

Isola dei Pescatori, one of the Borromean Islands on Lake Maggiore.

Getting there

Our verdict

Lake Maggiore is among the easiest places in northern Italy to love. You do very little walking and see a great deal, as boats, a cable car and a flat shoreline bring the views to you.

Choose spring for the flowers, base yourself in Stresa, and keep each day to one island and one long lunch. It suits travellers who prefer beauty at a gentle pace.

Isola Bella, Borromean Islands, Lake Maggiore.

“Here the mountains stand guard, and the water asks only that you stay a little longer.”

Photo credits

• Borromeo-P3P-20170530-010 36234155645: CucombreLibre from New York, NY, USA, CC BY 2.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Isola Bella Stresa - DSC03550: Daderot, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
• Isola Bella, belvedere: BáthoryPéter talk , CC BY-SA 3.0 via Wikimedia Commons
• Isola Bella Stresa - DSC03945: Daderot, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
• Isole dei Pescatori: Fawcett5 at English Wikipedia, Public domain via Wikimedia Commons
• Lago-Maggiore 1365: Mbdortmund, GFDL 1.2 via Wikimedia Commons